Interview about Eves Weapon Collier, winner of the A' Jewelry Design Award 2016
Eve's weapon is made of 750 carat rose and white gold. It contains 110 diamonds (20.2ct) and consists of 62 segments. All of them have two completely different appearances: In side view the segments are apple shaped, in top view V-shaped lines can be seen. Each segment is split sideways to create the spring loading effect holding the diamonds – the diamonds are held by tension only. This advantageously emphasizes the luminosity, brilliance and maximizes the visible radiance of the diamond. It allows for a extremely light and clear design, despite the size of the necklace.
View detailed images, specifications, and award details on A' Design Award & Competition website.
View Design DetailsThe Eves Weapon Collier presented significant engineering challenges, particularly in achieving the precise tension needed to secure 110 diamonds without traditional prongs. We utilized advanced CAD software to model each segment and ensure exact tolerances. The tension setting required meticulous calculation and testing to achieve the perfect balance between security and aesthetic brilliance. This process involved numerous prototypes and adjustments to guarantee both durability and visual appeal.
The dual aesthetic of the Eves Weapon Collier was inspired by the symbolic story of Eve and the apple, representing temptation and knowledge. The side view symbolizes the allure and curiosity that the apple represents, while the V-shape from above signifies the path of choice and consequence. This duality enhances the narrative by visually and symbolically capturing the essence of the story and the decisions we face in life.
Balancing the multiple layers of meaning in the apple motif was achieved by integrating modern design elements with traditional symbolism. The sleek, contemporary lines of the collier, combined with the intricate tension setting of the diamonds, create a piece that is both visually striking and deeply meaningful. The design subtly incorporates the themes of love, temptation, and power, allowing the wearer to connect with the piece on a personal level while maintaining a modern aesthetic.
Crafting each of the 62 segments involved a meticulous process of design, testing, and assembly. Each segment was individually crafted and tested to ensure that it met the precise requirements for tension setting. The segments were then carefully assembled to create a seamless and flexible structure that adapts to the wearer's movements. The visual effect was achieved by ensuring that each diamond is positioned to catch the light perfectly, enhancing the collier's brilliance and transforming it with every movement.
Ensuring the stability and comfort of the Eves Weapon Collier involved a combination of advanced engineering and ergonomic design. The tension settings were meticulously tested to ensure they could withstand daily wear without compromising on stability. The collier was also designed with a focus on flexibility and weight distribution, ensuring that it sits comfortably on the neck and adapts to the wearer's movements without causing discomfort.
My expertise in traditional goldsmithing and modern design techniques played a crucial role in developing the Eves Weapon Collier. Combining rose and white gold with diamonds required a deep understanding of material properties and how they interact. Traditional craftsmanship techniques ensured the integrity and quality of the piece, while modern design tools allowed for precise planning and execution. This blend of old and new methods resulted in a piece that is both innovative and rooted in timeless craftsmanship.
The inspiration for the tension-only setting technique came from a desire to highlight the natural brilliance of the diamonds without the distraction of traditional prongs. This technique advances traditional jewelry design principles by pushing the boundaries of what is possible in terms of both aesthetics and engineering. By allowing the diamonds to appear as if they are floating, we create a sense of lightness and modernity that enhances their natural beauty and brilliance.
The journey of Eves Weapon Collier was full of unexpected discoveries. I just like apples. I never thought it possible that apples would inspire me to create a design that would win me a gold A'Design Award and exhibit this piece of jewelry of mine at the Expo in Milan.
Eves Weapon Collier both reflects and challenges contemporary trends in luxury jewelry design. It embodies the current emphasis on personalization and storytelling by incorporating deep symbolic meaning. At the same time, it challenges traditional design norms through its innovative tension setting and dual aesthetic. This combination of classical symbolism and modern execution creates a piece that is both timeless and forward-thinking, appealing to a sophisticated and discerning audience.
The most lasting impact of the Eves Weapon Collier on future jewelry design will likely be its innovative use of tension setting and its ability to blend deep symbolism with modern aesthetics. This approach encourages designers to think outside the box and explore new techniques that enhance both the visual and emotional appeal of their pieces. By pushing the boundaries of what is technically possible, the collier sets a new standard for combining artistry with engineering in jewelry design.
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