Interview about Kashmir Ring, winner of the A' Jewelry Design Award 2024
Inspired by the Kashmir paisley pattern, reflects the vibrant fabrics of the Middle East, particularly India. Crafted to convey the magic and spiritual charm of India, it embodies the essence of a Kashmir shawl in a three-dimensional form. Although it falls into the category of dome rings, its design balances positive and negative spaces, creating a delicate equilibrium between complexity and simplicity. Despite its size, its ideal weight and volume distribution ensure it is easily wearable for everyday occasions. Materials: 18K gold, diamonds, blue sapphire, citrine, and red garnet.
View detailed images, specifications, and award details on A' Design Award & Competition website.
View Design DetailsThe paisley, with its fluid and organic shapes, carries rich cultural significance, and I wanted to honor that while reimagining it in a more sculptural, wearable form.I studied the paisley’s delicate curves and intricate detailing in its textile form, noting how the patterns often flow and intertwine. I sought to retain the essence of that movement and continuity while transforming it not just in a jewel but in a piece of wearable art.The idea was to preserve the sense of fluidity from the fabric while adapting it into a form that could interact with light and shadows, giving the paisley a dynamic, almost living quality. What truly guided me through this process was my instinct and my appreciation for beauty and movement. I started with a piece of jewelry wax, first carving the shape of the dome ring. Then, I hollowed out the model to the desired thickness to ensure a strong structure after casting. From there, I began drawing directly on the wax to form the top part of the pattern, gradually sawing away the areas that would remain empty. This technique allowed me to carve each section of the pattern one after the other, as the shapes seemed to "auto-create" themselves through my hands. That was not easy, as the wax is very soft at certain thickness...It’s difficult to explain my particular design process - it’s more about having an idea in my mind and bringing it to life directly, whether with my hands or on the computer. This approach also gives me the freedom to make changes to the initial concept as I go along, leading to the best final result.The outcome is a fusion of past and present, where the paisley pattern is not simply replicated but reimagined in a form that tells a new story.
I am not just a designer, but also a production specialist and bench jeweler, which means I have a deep understanding of the entire process of creating a piece of jewelry, from concept to completion. I have the technical knowledge required to ensure the longevity and durability of a piece like the Kashmir Ring. I am fully aware of the necessary thicknesses and proportions, particularly the width of the bridges connecting the voids, to ensure that the structure remains strong and stable while still allowing for the intricate balance of positive and negative spaces. This expertise enables me to create a design that is both visually striking, structurally sound and elegant.
The Middle East is known for its vibrant use of color, and in jewelry, there is an abundance of precious stones. I chose diamonds to draw the eye to the top of the ring, where you will find the blue sapphire and citrine - cold and warm tones that naturally enhance each other. The addition of a touch of red garnet surprises the eye, especially when viewed from all angles, creating an element of intrigue. While I wanted to showcase this rich palette, I was careful not to overuse gemstones, as my goal was to create a modern, wearable piece of art that still honors the traditional aesthetics of Kashmir textiles.
First and foremost, I design, blueprint, and produce my jewelry as if I were creating it for myself to wear. I am very meticulous and particular about every detail, which ensures the final piece is perfect. Anatomy is a key consideration in my design process - understanding how the piece will interact with the body is essential. By carefully balancing weight and volume, I am able to create a statement piece that, despite its bold dimensions, feels surprisingly light and comfortable, almost as if you are barely wearing it.
The Kashmir Ring was entirely crafted by hand using the ancient lost wax technique, which allowed me to fully embrace traditional craftsmanship. After completing the physical piece, I recreated the design in Rhinoceros to digitize the model. This step freed me from the constraints of the bulky traditional mold and enabled me to create a precise 3D representation of the ring. The digital model also allowed me to produce a detailed three-dimensional video, showcasing the ring's volume and seamless pattern in a way that enhances appreciation for its intricate design.
I have my own philosophy: when something is truly beautiful, it lasts forever, transcending trends and time. Beauty is not subjective; it is objective. True beauty is timeless. That is the hallmark of exceptional design: the ability to create pieces that never lose their appeal and stand apart from ordinary designs. This timeless quality is what defines true luxury and distinguishes carefully crafted, high-end creations. I am lucky to have been born with a natural talent for design, nurtured in an environment filled with a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, art, beauty, and culture. For me, the process is instinctive. So I reaaly cannot tell you how I did it, because I just do it, whitout even thinking.
If you observe the model both frontally and laterally, you'll notice that it primarily follows the golden spiral. However, adhering strictly to the golden ratio would have resulted in a different, less refined dome head. Additionally, from the lateral perspective, it would have compromised the comfortable wearability that I always prioritize in my designs. To adapt these classical proportions, I made subtle adjustments to ensure a harmonious balance between aesthetic appeal and functionality, creating a seamless connection between the shank and the head without sacrificing elegance or comfort.
Traditional dome rings often feature a rounded, voluminous shape, with a smooth, continuous surface, sometimes embellished by one or more stones, or a pavé. However, with the Kashmir Ring, I consciously chose to challenge the conventional fullness and uniformity of the dome. Instead of a simple, solid form, I reinterpreted the dome with a more intricate, layered design, which brings a sense of lightness and movement to the piece. The smooth curve is broken up by subtle detailing that enhances its visual complexity, while maintaining a sense of elegance. Additionally, I focused on achieving a balance between the structure's boldness and the need for comfort, ensuring the ring feels as good as it looks. By merging traditional elements with modern sensibilities, I reinvented the classic dome ring into something more dynamic and refined.
There are no specific techniques for this; it’s more about having a certain finesse. Your hands need to be both gentle and steady. I had to work very carefully with the saw and the drill. In the more delicate areas where the model cracked, I used dental instruments to melt wax and repair it. Once the repairs were done, I meticulously reviewed the entire model to check for any missing details or imperfections. The goal is to ensure the wax is as smooth and flawless as possible before moving forward.
Yes, I believe the Kashmir Ring represents a step forward in this regard. While many designers and jewelers in the past and present have created pieces clearly inspired by specific cultures, they often lack a truly modern approach. With the Kashmir Ring, I aimed to transcend the direct replication of cultural motifs by reinterpreting them through a contemporary lens, blending tradition with innovation. By harmonizing cultural symbolism with sleek, modern aesthetics, I hope to inspire future designers to explore deeper, more meaningful ways of integrating cultural fusion into contemporary jewelry design, making it both timeless and relevant to today’s luxury market. With the recognition from the A' Design Award, I believe this message will be acknowledged and shared, further influencing the evolution of cultural integration in jewelry design.
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