Interview about Orizzonte 02 Card Case, winner of the A' Fashion and Travel Accessories Design Award 2023
The card case has a beautiful design that showcases the unique and eco-friendly fish leather material. The concept of carry the scenery with you is elegantly portrayed through the use of fish leather to represent the sea waves and gradient leather to reflect the changing colors of the sky. The traditional Japanese bellows manufacturing technique of Fu-kin-machi is employed to create a sleek and easily insertable card case. The use of discarded fish skin as fish leather is an innovative and sustainable approach that contributes to reducing environmental waste.
View detailed images, specifications, and award details on A' Design Award & Competition website.
View Design DetailsThe idea of transforming discarded yellowtail skin into luxury leather is not originally mine. My inspiration came from encountering fish leather and resonating with the phrase “sustainable manufacturing that does not waste the blessings of life” from those involved in fish leather production. This connection led me to consider creating items using fish leather.One day, while fishing before sunrise and watching the ocean during the “blue hour,” when the world is bathed in blue, I wondered if I could create leather items that express the waves of the sea and the changing sky through fish leather and gradient effects.Leather from cattle and other animals is also a by-product of meat culture, which means it is, in fact, a sustainable material. By using fish leather derived from "fish," which is commonly found on Japanese dining tables, it becomes easier to visualize the concept of a by-product.Through fish leather, I hope to encourage many people to reflect on waste and the by-products of meat culture in leather products.
While fishing before sunrise and watching the ocean during the enchanting moment known as the "blue hour," I was inspired to think about whether I could create leather items that express the waves of the sea using fish leather, while utilizing gradient effects to represent the changing colors of the sky.I realized that the scale patterns of fish leather not only resemble waves but also signify the creatures that inhabit the ocean, allowing it to effectively represent the sea itself.Additionally, I believed that a gradient effect was essential for capturing the nuances of the sky's hues. This led me to consider various methods for dyeing the leather to achieve the desired gradient, ensuring that the final product reflected the beautiful transitions of color that occur at dawn.
The "Fu-kin-machi" is a unique traditional technique in Japan, distinguished by its characteristics of being "thin" and offering "ease of use."The key feature of Fu-kin-machi lies in its design: unlike the standard "accordion gusset" (Jabara-machi), which folds the partitions inward (valley fold), the Fu-kin-machi folds outward (mountain fold). This design allows cards and other items to be easily inserted and removed without snagging, while also allowing for a thinner finish.Creating Fu-kin-machi requires more pattern pieces than standard accordion gussets, and it necessitates precise adjustments to the leather thickness down to 0.1 mm, as well as meticulous cutting. This complexity demands advanced skills and considerable effort, making it unsuitable for mass production. Consequently, there are very few workshops that continue to pass down this technique today.The Fu-kin-machi is not only aesthetically pleasing but also functionally superior, which is why it is rarely seen—there are very few artisans capable of producing it. While there are imitations that simply create gussets with mountain folds, true Fu-kin-machi embodies the delicate aesthetic sense and meticulous craftsmanship that characterize Japanese tradition. It is a unique cultural heritage that we must preserve for future generations.My desire to carry on the tradition of the Fu-kin-machi was a significant factor in my decision to incorporate this technique into my designs.
In an attempt to express the gradient by layering many colors, we initially faced challenges with clearly defined boundaries between the colors, making it difficult to achieve the desired effect.We experimented extensively with dye concentrations and color adjustments, trying various tools for dye application, including brushes and rollers. Ultimately, we concluded that using cotton soaked in dye was the most effective method.Additionally, we explored different techniques for dyeing with the dye-imbued cotton, adjusting the pressure applied and experimenting with various motions such as rubbing and tapping. Through this process, we identified the most suitable methods for each color, allowing us to create a smooth and cohesive gradient.
The Orizzonte 02 Card Case, with its concept of "Carry the scenery with you," captures a deep-rooted philosophy in Japanese design that reveres nature, tradition, and mindful living. This approach integrates the beauty of natural materials with practical utility, encouraging people to incorporate nature into everyday life. In contemporary Japanese design, this philosophy reflects a cultural movement toward sustainability and simplicity—qualities that resonate with the elegance and functionality of the Orizzonte 02.
The reality is that parts of fish familiar on Japanese tables, such as heads, bones, and "skins," are discarded far more than one might imagine. Of these discarded parts, about 10% are processed into fish meal for use as fertilizer or animal feed, while the remaining 90% is incinerated as waste.Inspired by the philosophy of the company providing our fish leather—“sustainable manufacturing that does not waste the blessings of life”—we established "L'ora blu" with the desire to help popularize fish leather.Although global production is still limited, fish leather has recently gained attention as a new eco-friendly alternative to conventional leather such as cowhide.When people hear "fish leather," they may imagine it to be smelly or fragile, but through a tanning process similar to animal hides, it is transformed into leather that is incredibly durable and free from any fishy odor.Over the course of about a month, we turn “fish skin” into “fish leather.” As each piece of fish skin is small, the tanning process requires significant time and effort, making fish leather a very valuable material.Fish Leather Production Process①Collecting Fish SkinsWe collect fish skins that would normally be discarded from fresh fish markets and food processing companies. These skins are typically thrown away during the processing of sashimi and other fish dishes. This includes not only skins but also heads and organs, contributing to approximately 660,000 tons of fish waste each year.②Removing FleshAny remaining flesh and fat are carefully removed from the skin, as oxidized fat causes unpleasant odors. This is one of the most important steps in eliminating fishy smells, requiring delicate, thorough work on each individual skin.③SaltingThe skins contain a lot of moisture and can spoil easily, so they are sprinkled with salt and preserved by drying. By selecting and preserving skins of varying species and thicknesses according to the season, we aim for a consistent, high-quality result.④Defatting and BleachingThe dried skins are then soaked in a defatting and bleaching solution to further remove fats and to cleanse and lighten the skins. Repeating this process over two weeks gradually removes any fishy odor.⑤Tannin TanningTannins derived from plants are infused into the fish skins, turning them into leather. By immersing the skins in a tannin solution—a substance found in tea, for example—for two weeks, they become durable, flexible fish leather.⑥DyeingThe finished fish leather is dyed in carefully selected colors, bringing out its unique characteristics and beauty as a product material.⑦CompletionThe fish leather of buri (Japanese Yellowtail), a fish known for its “promotion” through life stages, has fine scales about 1–2 mm in size, creating a smooth texture. The leather’s look is subtle and doesn’t overtly suggest “fish,” which will surely appeal to connoisseurs.In Japan, before the Meiji era, samurai and scholars would change their names when they came of age or achieved success, leading to the tradition of “promotion fish” (shusse-uo)—fish that change names as they mature, symbolizing good fortune. These fish were considered auspicious and were often given as celebratory gifts.This auspicious card case makes a great “good luck charm” for work, offering an excellent conversation starter. It’s an ideal gift not only for those who wish to bring good fortune into their careers but also for occasions like celebrating a new job or a promotion.
The Orizzonte 02 Card Case’s blend of sustainability and luxury could set a powerful precedent in the future of accessory design by reshaping the expectations around premium goods. It demonstrates that luxury doesn't have to come at the expense of the environment, and that sustainable materials can be as alluring and desirable as traditional ones. This approach can lead to several key shifts in the industry:Broader Adoption of Sustainable Materials: High-end designers are increasingly willing to explore alternative materials like fish leather, mushroom leather, and other innovative options. This could lead to a broader market embrace of sustainable alternatives that maintain the quality and aesthetics required in luxury goods.Integration of Storytelling into Product Value: As the case suggests, when items have a story—such as being crafted from repurposed materials—they carry emotional and ethical value. Consumers are increasingly drawn to pieces that reflect values like conservation and mindful consumption, so future accessories might prioritize a similar narrative.Emphasis on Transparency and Traceability: As sustainability continues to influence luxury, consumers are also looking for transparency in sourcing and production. Knowing the origins of materials (e.g., ethically sourced fish leather) becomes a part of the appeal, allowing buyers to make choices aligned with their values.In essence, designs like the Orizzonte 02 Card Case are at the forefront of a new luxury movement—one that values ethics, environmental stewardship, and innovation, potentially inspiring both consumers and designers to rethink what “luxury” truly represents.
The two color variations of the Horizonte 02 card case, "L'ora blu" and "Il notturno," are designed to express different time periods and allow users to feel the flow of time and its beauty. Below, we will introduce how each color variation captures different time periods and what thoughts are put into it.L'ora blu"L'ora blu" means "blue hour" and is a color that evokes the mysterious time period when the sky after sunset quietly turns from blue to purple. This time period is reminiscent of the moment of silence and fantastic scenery before the city is enveloped in night. The deep blue of Luora Blu is calming, but at the same time combines luxury and elegance, and is designed to make you feel connected to nature in your daily life.Il notturnoOn the other hand, "Il notturno" means "night view painting" and is a color that expresses the deep darkness and silence of the night. This color is based on chic and calm black and deep charcoal gray, embodying the mystery and quiet strength of the night. "Il notturno" is a timeless design that is simple yet elegant and sophisticated, and fits any occasion. This color evokes the beauty of the night, while also serving as an item that enhances the owner's confidence and elegance.The two color variations of the Horizonte 02 card case are based on different sensations and time of day, naturally making the user feel the passage of time. Each color and theme is designed to provide a little extra special time in everyday life.
The Leather Edge Creaser technique plays a pivotal role in the Orizzonte 02 Card Case's signature refined aesthetic. This tool is used to create a clean, decorative line along the edge of the leather, enhancing its visual appeal and giving it a professional, polished look. Here's how it contributes to the design:Precision and Symmetry: The creaser ensures a consistent groove or bevel along the edges, which adds a harmonious and balanced detail to the piece. This level of precision elevates the card case, aligning with its minimalist yet sophisticated design language.Refined Texture: Beyond its aesthetic contribution, the creaser slightly compresses the edge, preparing it for edge finishing treatments like burnishing or painting. This reduces roughness and ensures the edges remain smooth to the touch.Durability: Well-finished edges are not just about looks—they protect the leather from fraying or splitting over time. The technique reinforces the structural integrity of the card case, ensuring longevity without compromising its sleek appearance.In the Orizzonte 02, the meticulous use of the Leather Edge Creaser reflects a commitment to craftsmanship, offering an understated yet striking detail that speaks to the sophistication of the design and the skilled techniques behind its creation.
Building on the success of the Orizzonte 02 Card Case, we’re eager to push the boundaries of fish leather and gradient techniques while staying true to our core value of environmental responsibility. Here’s how we plan to evolve:1. Expanded Use of Fish LeatherBroader Applications: We aim to explore fish leather in larger designs such as wallets, clutches, or small accessories, showcasing its versatility and unique texture.2. Gradient Techniques as a Signature StyleDynamic Colorways: Extending gradient effects to create more vivid and multidimensional color palettes, echoing the natural hues of aquatic ecosystems.Handcrafted Artistry: Collaborating with artisans to incorporate hand-painted or hand-dyed gradients, making each piece one-of-a-kind and further celebrating craftsmanship.3. Environmental ResponsibilitySustainable Sourcing: We will continue partnering with suppliers who upcycle discarded fish skins, reducing waste from the fishing industry.Eco-Friendly Treatments: Experimenting with plant-based dyes and water-efficient tanning methods to reduce the environmental footprint of production.By staying innovative yet conscious, we aim to deepen the narrative of luxury rooted in sustainability—creating designs that resonate with those who value style and responsibility in equal measure.
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